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His only rival was a poet named Mohammed Solih, running for the small, figurehead opposition party Erk (Will or Freedom who got 12 and was soon driven into exile (where he remains to this day). The real opposition groups, birlik and the Islamic Renaissance party (irp and all other parties with a religious platform, had been forbidden to take part. A new constitution unveiled in 1992 declared Uzbekistan 'a secular, democratic presidential republic'. Under Karimov, uzbekistan would remain secular almost to a fault. But it would remain far from 'democratic'. Onward to Andijon The years after independence saw Karimov consolidate his grip on power. He remained firmly in charge of everything from municipal gardeners' salaries to gold production"s -as he was, under a different title, even before independence.

Then in October 1924 the essay whole map was redrawn on ethnic grounds, and the uzbeks suddenly had a 'homeland an official identity and a literary language. The uzbek soviet Socialist Republic (SSR) changed shape and composition over the years as it suited Moscow, hiving off Tajikistan in 1929, acquiring Karakalpakstan from Russia in 1936, taking parts of the hungry Steppe (the russian nickname for the dry landscape between Tashkent and jizzakh). For rural Uzbeks, the main impacts of soviet rule were the forced and often bloody collectivisation of the republic's mainstay (agriculture) and the massive shift to cotton cultivation. The uzbek intelligentsia and much of the republic's political leadership was decimated by Stalin's purges. This and the traditional Central Asian respect for authority meant that by the 1980s glasnost (openness) and perestroika (restructuring) would hardly trickle down here; few significant reforms took place. Independence uzbekistan's first serious noncommunist popular movement, birlik (Unity was formed by tashkent intellectuals in 1989 over issues that included Uzbek as an official language and the effects of the cotton monoculture. Despite popular support, it was barred from contesting the election in February 1990 for the uzbek supreme soviet (legislature) by the communist Party. The resulting communist-dominated body elected Islam Karimov, the first secretary of the communist Party of Uzbekistan (cpuz to the new post of executive president. Following the abortive coup in Moscow in August 1991, karimov declared Uzbekistan independent. Soon writing afterward the cpuz reinvented itself as the people's Democratic Party of Uzbekistan (pdpu inheriting all of its predecessor's property and control apparatus, most of its ideology, and of course its leader, karimov. In December 1991, uzbekistan held its first direct presidential elections, which Karimov won with 86 of the vote.

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Incredibly, abbott made it to St Petersburg. In search of news of Abbott, lieutenant Richmond Shakespear reached Khiva the following June and convinced the khan to unilaterally release all Russian slaves in Khiva and even give them an armed escort to the nearest Russian outpost, on the eastern Caspian sea. Russian gratitude was doubtlessly mingled with fury over one of the Great Game's boldest propaganda coups. When the russians finally rallied 25 years later, the khanates' towns fell like dominoes -tashkent in 1865 to general mikhail Cherny-aev, samarkand and bukhara in 1868, Khiva in 1873, and kokand in 1875 to general Kon-stantin kaufman. Soviet daze even into the 20th century, most Central Asians identified themselves ethnically as Turks or Persians. The connection between 'uzbek" gpa and 'uzbekistan' is very much a soviet matter. Following the outbreak of the russian revolution in 1917 and the infamous sacking of kokand in 1918, the bolsheviks proclaimed the autonomous soviet Socialist Republic of Turkestan. Temporarily forced out by counter-revolutionary troops and basmachi (Muslim guerrilla fighters they returned two years later and the Khiva and bukhara khanates were forcibly replaced with 'people's Republics'.

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But by the needed time the russians got around to marching on Khiva in 1717, the khan no longer wanted Russian protection, and after a show of hospitality he had almost the entire 4000-strong force slaughtered. The slave market in bukhara and Khiva was an excuse for further Russian visits to free a few Russian settlers and travellers. In 1801 the insane Tsar paul sent 22,000 Cossacks on a madcap mission to drive the British out of India, with orders to free the slaves en route. Fortunately for all but the slaves, the tsar was assassinated and the army recalled while struggling across the kazakh steppes. The next attempt, by Tsar Nicholas i in 1839, was really a bid to pre-empt expansion into central Asia by Britain, which had just taken Afghanistan, although Khiva's Russian slaves were the pretext on which General Per-ovsky's 5200 men and 10,000 camels set out from. In January 1840, a british officer, captain James Abbott, arrived in Khiva (having travelled from Herat in Afghan disguise) offering to negotiate the slaves' release on the khan's behalf, thus nullifying the russians' excuse for coming. Unknown to the khan, the russian force had already turned back, in the face of a devastating winter on the steppes. He agreed to send Abbott to the tsar with an offer to release the slaves in return for an end to russian military expeditions against Khiva.

By the end of the 14th century these tribes had begun to name themselves after him. The uzbeks began to move southeast, mixing with sedentary turkic tribes and adopting the turkic language; they reached the syr-Darya in the mid-15th century. Following an internal schism (which gave birth to the proto-kazakhs; see p42 the uzbeks rallied under Mohammed Shaybani and thundered down upon the remnants of Timur's empire. By the early 1500s, all of Transoxiana the land beyond the Oxus from the Amu-darya (Oxus river) to the syr-Darya (Jaxartes river) belonged to the uzbeks, as it has since. The greatest (and last) of the Shaybanid khans, responsible for some of bukhara's finest architecture, was Abdullah ii, who ruled from 1538 until his death in 1598. After this, as the silk road fell into disuse, the empire unravelled under the Shaybanids' distant cousins, the Astrakhanids. By the start of the 19th century the entire region was dominated by three weak, feuding Uzbek city-states -Khiva, bukhara and kokand. The russians Arrive in the early 18th century the khan of Khiva made an offer to peter the Great of Russia (to become his vassal in return for help against marauding Turkmen and kazakh tribes stirring the first Russian interest in Central Asia.

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Out of the northern steppes in the 6th century ad came the western Turks - the western branch of the empire of the so-called kok (Blue) Turks. They soon grew attached to assignments life here and abandoned their wandering ways, eventually taking on a significant role in maintaining the existence of the silk road (see p53). The Arabs brought Islam and a written alphabet to central Asia in the 8th century but found the region too big and restless to govern. A return to the persian fold came with the samanid dynasty in the 9th and 10th centuries. Its capital, bukhara, became the centre of an intellectual, religious and commercial renaissance.

In the 11th century the Ghaznavids moved into the southern regions. For some time love the turkic Khorezmshahs dominated Central Asia from present-day konye-urgench in Turkmenistan, but their reign was cut short and the region's elegant oases ravaged by jenghiz khan in the early 13th century. Central Asia again became truly 'central' with the rise of Timur (also known as Tamerlane the ruthless warrior and patron of the arts who fashioned a glittering Islamic capital at Samarkand. The uzbeks Little is known of early uzbek history. At the time the golden Horde was founded, Shibaqan (Shayban a grandson of Jenghiz khan, inherited what is today northern kazakhstan and adjacent parts of Russia. The greatest khan of these mongol Shaybani tribes (and probably the one under whom they swapped paganism for Islam) was Ozbeg (Uzbek, ruled 1313-40).

Most rain falls in March and April. The summer furnace of 35C days lasts 40 days from mid-July to the end of August. The worst of winter lasts 40 days from Christmas to the first week of February; see also the Climate Charts, p446. In this chapter, the high season is spring (mid-March to the end of may) and autumn (September to the beginning of november). Summer is from June to august, and winter is from December to february. X* 1 111 / u / s s is 1 / y.

J ht i travelling safely in uzbekistan as in many police states, the main danger is the overzealous police. Proceed with extreme caution in all border areas, which are heavily patrolled and generally off-limits to foreigners without special permits. Also note that much of the uzbek-tajik border, and parts of the uzbek-kyrgyz border, have been mined. Uzbekistan Airways has a generally clean track record, although a termiz-tashkent flight crashed in 2004, killing. History the land along the upper Amu-darya, syr-Darya and their tributaries has always been different from the rest of Central Asia - more settled than nomadic, with patterns of land use and communality that has changed little from the time of the Achaemenids (6th century. An attitude of permanence and proprietorship still sets the people of this region apart. Ancient Empires The region was part of some very old Persian states, including Bactria, khorezm and Sogdiana. In the 4th century bc alexander the Great entered Cyrus the Great's Achae-menid empire. He stopped near Marakanda (Samarkand) and then, having conquered the sogdians in their homeland mountains, married Roxana, the daughter of a local chieftain (see p37).

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US1.05/0.95, internet per hour US0.50-0.80, uzbek skull cap US2-4 1L of bottled water US0.40, domestic beer (bar) US0.75-1. Domestic beer (store) US0.50, shashlyk us0.30-0.50 1L of petrol US0.50 should head south to the archaeological oasis of Termiz before flying back to tashkent wallpaper for some museum hopping, good food and a night or two on the town. Bazaar lovers should consider the fergana valley instead of Termiz. One month All the above sights can be seen in a month at a more relaxed pace. You can hit both Termiz and the fergana valley and devote more time to exploring Uzbekistan's natural wonders: including hiking, rafting or skiing in Ugam-Chatkal National Park, and camel trekking, hiking and community-based tourism near lake aidarkul and the nu-rata mountains. Climate when to go, large areas of Uzbekistan are desert. Summer is long, hot and dry; spring is mild and rainy; autumn has light frosts and rains; and winter, although short, is unstable with snow and temperatures below freezing. From June to august average afternoon temperatures hit 32C or higher. The average annual maximum temperature is 40C in June.

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One week fly to Urgench from where it's a short shared-taxi ride to the 'museum city' of Khiva. Spend a day wandering around the walled old city, ichon-Qala. The next day travel by shared taxi to bukhara and Samarkand, giving each place an extra day. On your last day in Tashkent catch an opera and a museum or two. Two weeks reviews Fly west to nukus and spend a half-day appreciating Central Asia's greatest art collection in the savitsky museum. Head south to Khiva via the ancient ruined fortresses of Elliq Qala. Around bukhara, take a time-out from architecture with a yurtstay near lake aidarkul. After three days covering Samarkand and vicinity, history buffs. Snickers bar US0.40 100km bus ride us1, one-minute phone call to the us/UK.

Quirky cultural Gems Carmen for a dollar at Tashkent's Alisher navoi opera ballet Theatre (p207) and Central Asia's greatest art collection in nukus' savitsky museum (p259). Khiva (p252) The last independent khanate frozen in time amid the desert. Crafty uzbekistan Silk in Margilon (p220 ceramics in Rishton (p221 suzani (silk and cotton coverlets) in Shakhrisabz (p232) and everything under the sun in bukhara (p246). Itineraries, three days Start in bukhara, either with a domestic flight from Tashkent or overland from Turkmenistan. Wander around lyabi-hauz, tour the Ark, and gape at the 47m Kalon Minaret and the stunning medressa ensembles. Pamper yourself in a bodacious b b, then zip to samarkand the next morning to explore the four pearls of Timurid-era architecture: the registan, bibi Khanym Mosque, shah-i-zinda and Guri Amir mausoleum. On day three exit to tajikistan, taking a detour on the way to Shakhrisabz or the Urgut bazaar (Sunday and Thursday only).

Seen in person, the japanese big Three do not disappoint (the occasional overzealous restorative effort notwithstanding). Alas, they sometimes overshadow the country's other attractions, which include dazzling bazaars, ancient desert fortresses and an impressive array of largely unsung natural attractions. All of that is enough to eclipse the bad memories evoked by names such as Jenghiz khan, timur, nasrullah Khan and Stalin. The country's long-serving current leader, Islam Karimov, is no saint either. Despite it all, the uzbek people remain good-spirited and genuinely hospitable - yet another prime attraction in this oddly endearing country. Fast facts, area 447,400 sq km Capital Tashkent country code fBj 998. Famous For Plov, tasty pomegranates, samarkand, timur (Tamerlane being Borat's neighbour Languages Uzbek, russian, tajik, karakalpak. Money uzbek sum; US1 1238S; 1 1628S.

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Pdf, lonely Planet Publications 186, uzbekistan, y36ekhctah. No country in Central Asia seems to have it so good, yet at the same time have it so bad, as Uzbekistan. The region's cradle of culture for more than two millennia, it is the proud home to a spellbinding arsenal of architecture and artefacts, all deeply infused with the raw, fascinating history of the country. But as students of that history know, it's also sprung a few bad apples over the years. Tyrants essay enamoured by the country's physical bounty have run the territory we now call Uzbekistan since time immemorial. Concentrating on the good, if there was a hall of Fame for Central Asian cities, uzbekistan would own the top-three entries: Samarkand, bukhara, khiva. The names practically epitomise the region, conjuring up images of knife-twirling dervishes, serpentine desert caravans and architecture that blends with the sand.

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